Your Complete Guide to the Isle of Skye
I’ve traveled across the country of Switzerland numerous times, circled around Ireland, and drove the South Island of New Zealand – but the Scottish Highlands may be the most scenic place I have ever seen in my life.
Random Waterfall on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Sunny body of water on the other side of Kilt Rock on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Rocky Views on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Green mountains on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Sparkling body of water on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Rolling fog leaving the Isle of Skye; September 2024
The Isle of Skye lives up to every one of its last expectations, but there are a few things to know before you go.
Read more to learn everything you’ll need to know before going to the Isle of Skye.
Everything You Need to Know Before Traveling to the Isle of Skye in Scotland
Sunny day with a sparkling body of water on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Driving in the Isle of Skye and the Scottish Highlands is Challenging
Even though we were familiar with driving on the left side of the road in New Zealand and Australia, we soon learned that driving in Scotland was a whole other universe.
The roads are extremely narrow, windy, and at times – one way streets.
Rugged mountains while driving on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
This means you’ll often come across a turnout, or as the Scots say, “layby” – where you’ll have to turn into the left to let other people pass you. NEVER GO TO THE RIGHT. You have to turn to the left if you are the second person, as the right of way goes to the person who got there first.
Scenic Views on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Beware of Ditches on the Isle of Skye
In addition to this, a lot of the roads to and in the Isle of Skye itself are poorly paved – with deep ditches you’ll have to pay attention to. This is precisely why it’s important to drive slow and not get cocky even if you start to get the hang of driving on the left.
The last thing you want on your trip is a rental car with a flat tire. Therefore, if you usually drive on the right side of the road – try to aim for the middle so you don’t hug the left side too hard, and accidentally find yourself with a flat tire from a ditch on A82, A87, or A855 in the Isle of Skye.
🚗 Additional Tips for Driving in Scotland
Here are some other key things to remember when driving in Scotland:
🚨 Speed Limits & Cameras
Trucks (lorries) have lower speed limits than cars, and Scotland uses
hidden speed cameras — even in seemingly remote areas.
On the A9 heading south toward
Glasgow
and
Edinburgh,
expect 60 mph on single carriageways and 70 mph on dual carriageways —
but trucks may be limited to 50 mph.
➡️ Passing & Overtaking
When in doubt, let locals pass.
In Scotland, the overtaking lane is on the right,
and the steady lane is on the left.
Dual carriageways are often short, so only pass if you have plenty of space.
⛰️ Blind Summits
Many Scottish roads are filled with bends and blind summits.
You’ll usually see warning signs well in advance — take them seriously
and reduce your speed before crests and curves.
⛔ No Stops Zones
Some stretches of road will go on for miles with
no safe place to stop.
These areas are marked with a blue circle and a red “X”.
Plan bathroom and photo stops ahead of time.
⛽ Petrol vs Diesel
Everything is flipped compared to the
United States.
Green = petrol (gasoline)
Black = diesel
You’ll also pay after you fill up, not before.
Are There Big Cliffs When Driving in the Isle of Skye?
Luckily, there are no massive cliffs that could scare beginner drivers to the left side of the road – but if you’re able to, get the smallest car you’re comfortable driving when visiting the rental car center.
Lakes and rolling hills on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Route to the Isle of Skye
When driving to the Isle of Skye from Edinburgh or Glasgow, you should really try to drive through Glencoe and make a stop at Eilean Donan Castle. The main road you’ll take will be A82 before switching to A87.
Views while driving through Glencoe; September 2024
What Can I See and Do at Glencoe in Scotland?
Glencoe is more of a small village with not much to see or do (the main point is to pass through Glencoe for the views), but Eilean Donan is an actual stop worthwhile. You’ll find coffee, food, and restrooms at both.
View of Eilean Donan Castle; September 2024
It’s important to remember that driving through Glencoe and stopping at Eilean Donan adds time to your journey, meaning that you should only go this route either on the way to or back from the Isle of Skye.
Isle of Skye in a Day Per Local Recommendation: The Trotternish Peninsula
When we got to the Isle of Skye, our lovely Airbnb Host advised to not go to the top of the Isle of Skye. He instead advised us to cut across once we reached the town of Staffin to Uig, and then to loop back around to the main town of Portree.
The main road you’ll use for the Trotternish Peninsula (also known as the Trotternish Loop) will be A855.
Random beauty on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
🚗 General Advice & Tips for Driving Around the Isle of Skye
Here are the most important things to know — and stops to prioritize — when driving around the Isle of Skye.
⏰ Start Your Tour EARLY
We left our Airbnb at 8:49 AM, and by the time we reached major parking lots around
10 AM, many were already full.
Keep in mind that all major tourist stops — including Eilean Donan Castle, Kilt Rock, and Portree —
charge for parking, even for short visits.
Starting early also means less traffic and fewer locals needing to speed past you on narrow roads.
🚻 Turnouts Are Your Friend
If you need to pee, reroute, stretch your legs, or stop for an incredible view —
use the turnouts.
They’re perfect for quick photo stops and much-needed breaks without disrupting traffic on Skye’s narrow roads.
🌊 Kilt Rock
This was hands down our favorite stop while driving the Isle of Skye.
The scenery here is completely unreal.
While parking is paid, there are picnic benches where you can stop for a meal while soaking in
the dramatic coastal views.
💧 Lealt Gorge & Waterfalls
The imagery in the Scottish Highlands can change on a dime — from meadows, to rugged brown terrain, to rushing water.
Keep your eyes peeled for waterfalls and hidden viewpoints that may not always be marked clearly
on the map. Some of the best moments happen spontaneously.
☕ The Hungry Gull (Staffin)
I truly can’t recommend this spot enough.
Located in the middle of nowhere, it offers excellent vegan options, good coffee,
plus a bathroom and grocery store nearby.
It’s the perfect halfway stop during a full driving day around the Isle of Skye.
Kilt Rock on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Leave Time to Eat & Explore in Portree
Parking in Portree can be challenging. We found that the two main parking lots near the town square (Sommerland Square) and around the corner (The Green Car Park) were full – so we opted for the parking lot below the city center near the water on Portree IV51 9EW to maximize our time. It wasn’t too far away, just required some stairs to get to and back.
Streetview of Portree, the main city on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
🏡 Things to See & Do in Portree
Here’s what you should eat, see, and do when visiting Portree on the Isle of Skye:
🍽️ Eating in Portree
We ended up eating at The Isle Inn — and while they were busy and don’t take reservations,
it was well worth the wait.
My dad said it was the best fish and chips he’s ever had, and my cauliflower steak was delicious.
Both of us are tough critics, and we can confidently say the food here was superb.
🛍️ Gift Shops & Unique Stores
Portree has plenty of places to browse for t-shirts, jewelry, and unique souvenirs,
alongside small local galleries.
It’s a great spot to pick up something meaningful that feels tied to the Isle of Skye,
rather than mass-produced tourist trinkets.
⚓ Walk Down to the Harbor
If you walk down the stairs toward the water, you’ll find cheaper fish and chips
and some of the most picturesque views in Portree — with bright, colorfully painted hotels and shops.
Just beware: seagulls are everywhere. Hold your food close unless you want a repeat of what
happened to us in
Saint-Malo & Mont-Saint-Michel
.
Harbor in Portree, UK Scottish Highlands; September 2024
Route back to Edinburgh from the Isle of Skye
To quote our Airbnb host, “Don’t go back the way you came!”
When you’re driving back to Edinburgh, you can take A87 all the way to Inverness, Scotland’s fastest growing city. You’ll know you’re going the right way if you pass Eilean Donan again, this time – the castle will be on your right.
This way, you can avoid the more challenging, slower one-way roads heading back to Edinburgh or Glasgow.
Once you get to Inverness, you can switch to the road A9 – which will take you all the way back to Edinburgh.
Red mountain reflecting on the water during sunrise in the Isle of Skye; September 2024
How Long Does it Take to Drive from the Isle of Skye to Edinburgh?
Realistically, factoring in stops and potential traffic – it takes around 6 to 7 hours to drive to Edinburgh from the Isle of Skye. Locals will tell you that the drive can be done in 5 hours flat, but it’s simply not realistic. Maybe if you never stop from the Isle of Skye until Edinburgh, but even then – you can’t prepare for the city traffic or a potential accident on the road.
Even with minimal stops, it took us around 7 hours – so be sure to plan ahead.
Overall, you can’t prepare for the Scottish Highlands – it may be the most scenic place I’ve ever been to in my life… and I’ve traveled a lot, so that’s saying something!
🏔️🐑🚗 FAQs About the Isle of Skye
If you love places like New Zealand or Switzerland, you won’t want to miss out on the Isle of Skye.
That being said, even during the off-season, accommodation can be pricey and difficult to secure — so booking ahead is highly recommended.
Locals will often say it’s a 5-hour straight shot, but we found that nearly impossible unless you truly don’t stop and get very lucky with traffic.
A more comfortable trip is 3 to 4 days, while staying up to a week is perfect if you want to slow down and relax with jaw-dropping nature as your holiday backdrop.
Want to see our trip to the Isle of Skye in action?
Check out my vlog for the Isle of Skye below!
Need more advice for your trip to Scotland? Click here for blog posts on Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Additional articles you may find helpful include:
Scotland vs Ireland: Which Country Should You Visit?
How to Spend One Day in Glasgow: Day Trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow
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Last updated: January 27, 2026